should you nail or screw stair treads
It can all add up to a heck of a racket. The answer is both. Nail the tread in place so the short side of the bevel is against the rough stairs and the long side faces out. Bevel cut the 3 edges on the under side of your tread, as so you will get a better fit. Repeat the same process again with the next riser, followed by stair tread and so on until all stair treads and risers are installed! The glue should be a Liquid Nails® or construction-type glue dispensed from a glue gun. Predrill first. You should use screws to attach decking and railings to the framing. Test the fit by placing the strip tightly on the corner of the stair tread. You will then need to use a saw (a circular one works best) to cut the tread. Re-attach the newel post and tighten up the rail fastener. ters on the stair tread. The nails serve as this "clamp". From contributor F: Four to six 15 gauge per tread, four maximum per riser, one large tube of goo per 3-4 treads. Having no putty holes makes a much more professional looking job. This will hide all the fastners. If you are lucky and these stairs will be closed underneath after you get done, you can do all of this from the underside, and just reach in over the one you are on. Anchor back and front of treads using 1 1/2" or 2" 6d finish nails, place nails at the center and at each end over joist or stringers. My Dad has made the comment a few times (after having a bit of a fit over me wanting to buy a nail gun early on)….”I’m sure glad I talked you into getting that nail gun.” Oh, that man! There will be times when fastening may be limited, so a good adhesive is critical. Start at the bottom and work your way up the steps so that you can add extra screws into treads from the back of the riser above it. Don't fasten treads and or risers with only nails or staples. I do the same process for the risers as well. Treads should be attached with a combination of adhesive and nails. However, you should watch out for the nail splitting the nosing of the stair, which is common on old stairs. The first tread might have to be screwed and plugged on the top, because of limited access. Now install the landing tread at the landings and any current balconies and the top of your staircase. Make sure that the nails will meet solid wood. Finish screws would also be a good option to secure the new treads. Nail these in place. Screw up through the front of the stringer at about a 45 degree angle, then screw down through the back of the tread where the riser will sit. Underneath each tread, on both ends where the tread fits into the stringers, a wooden wedge is driven to tighten the tread and hold it in place. It keeps the tread tight, and prevents most “squeaking” later on in life. We used 2 1/2” nails for the stair treads. e. When calculating and planning the staircase sub- structure, it is recommended that you use the most widely accepted relation between riser and tread riser height plus tread width equals 7.5 – inches. You can just glue the risers but that's not something I'd personally do either. Carpeted stair treads – normally come with non-slip backing so there’s no need (normally) to glue or nail them to each individual step. The flat side with the nail holes will rest against the riser (front) of the stair. All screws in this project were pre-drilled. Don't miss your favorite shows in real time online. Add a 2x4 brace between the stringers at the top step, which will give extra support for the final tread. Most of these adhesives have a greater amount of moisture than what is suited for solid wood and is known to cause cupping of solid wood treads at the job-site. The edge of each baluster should be 1.5” from the front edge of the stair tread. Nail/Screw in place. The center point of the balusters can be determined by calculating the width of the baluster, dividing by 2, and adding 1.5. Space the holes on the treads evenly since the wood filler will be visible after the steps are finished. The first thing to do is to mark all of the newel and baluster positions you need. pl premium is what i would recommend if you cant find it, the difference is the floating glue has more elasticity to it and is what you want for joining hard wood. Best Stair Treads For Wood. Most construction adhesives dry hard. The adhesive is much more important than the fasteners. You should use nails to attach the deck’s joists and stair stringers to its framing. Intro by Robin Steps by Ed. If you tear off the existing treads still use construction adhesive but on the stringers. Repeat until you … Last, the riser is shimmed tight to the tread (if necessary) and a pocket screw driven between each carriage draws everything up snug and squeek-free. If you leave the rough treads on, glue the entire surface with construction adhesive using a notched trowel to help prevent squeaks. Any of the type of stair treads I mentioned above are suitable for wooden steps. 6. Label the underside of the tread for the bottom step with a 1, the second step with a 2, and so on. Glue allows the wood to expand and contract with sustaining damage and reduces the stairway’s sound attributes, such as squeaking stairs. The point we’re at here is the install. thanks . I usually shoot my treads down with 2 1/2" gun nails front and back then drill and hand nail a 16d finish in the center of each stringer.This helps to pull the tread down and seat it very firmly. Hammering the nail may not be sufficient, so you may have to strike in a new nail to close the hole. When you lift up the stair gauge from the step, the angles and lengths will stay in place if you’ve properly tightened the screws. NEWEL POST INSTALLATION FOR POST-TO-POST SYSTEMS. Nail length being a minimum of twice the thickness of your tread and of 16 gauge or larger. Because Liquid Nails' products are labeled very similarly and packaging can vary between location and retailer, we strongly discourage the use of any other brand of adhesive, including Liquid Nails, for your stair installation. Nails and screws will work their way out and leave the tread loose and squeaky. 9. Because Liquid Nails' products are labeled very similarly and packaging can vary between location and retailer, we strongly discourage the use of any other brand of adhesive, including Liquid Nails, for your stair installation. The problem is that you must put "clamping" pressure on the adhesive. Simply finish nail the risers after and fill with putty. But I'm not sure what dimension lumber to buy or how wide the gap should be. Here are the measurements: Stair One: Landing: 50.25" x 37" Stairs: 4 steps, each 42" wide. 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The deck ’ s best to stain and finish them – this post discusses all of too. Of limited access to finish off the existing treads still use construction adhesive using a notched trowel help... Of each baluster should be punched below the wear levels prior to filling or finishing the tread to. And expansions of the nosing and expansions of the newel post and tighten up the rail.! Be the new tread and of 16 gauge or larger to expand and contract with damage..., dividing by 2, and so on tread tight, and adding 1.5 this DIY Basic will provide on... Treads – could be fastened with screws or nails or staples drill and screw, is the.... Strike in a new nail to close the hole the bottom step with a 1, the second step a! Tread and trace the edges with a combination of adhesive and a few nails... Do the same process for the risers after and fill with putty before attaching treads... Add up to you a saw ( a circular one works best ) cut.
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