cut fiddle leaf fig trunk

Just wanted to give you a little fiddle leaf fig (aka ficus lyrata) update. It's quite sad looking but would love to do as much as I can for it come springtime. You might also be able to lightly trim the roots and simply reposition the shortened tree in the pot so it's oriented vertically. You CAN shorten the tree now, and can be sure a new branch will form in the leaf axil closest to the pruning cut - the top leaf. Right now, I have one branch resting on the window and the other is semi-supported by the other branch/trunk. Help finding the right light in my apartment for plants! Al, so what you're saying is to cut where I have indicated with the red lines and allow the branch circled in yellow to grow? What's my best course of action? I live in San Diego, CA and I've had the fiddle leaf pictured below (sorry can't figure out how to rotate here) for a few years now. If you repot a healthy tropical ficus in fall or winter, it might take several months to recover to the point top growth can resume. Anamika - your F lyrata is better equipped to handle soil conditions slightly too dry than too moist, so it would be to your advantage if you withhold water until you can barely detect moisture on the tell you're using. Increase light, soil volume/quality, and air circulation will increases metabolism rate. Gave it a go with the air layering. This is extremely easy if you can water correctly or have included plans to flush the soil periodically. This plant lives about 3 feet away from a S/SW window and doesn't receive any direct sunlight. It can adapt to brighter and to a lesser extent a light level not as bright as it's conditioned to, but there are limits to the degree to which a leaf can adapt to variation in light loads. It depends on how healthy the tree is, and in part, how far apart the leaves behind the pruning cut are; whereas, if you were making the cut in the summer, you could be pretty sure you'd get branching from leaf axils further down the trunk. This is something we should work to avoid by making sure that once the effluent has passed through the soil, there is NO pathway for the effluent or wastes it contains that leads back into the soil. The growing season has been kind to it! Yes! Ive killed a ficus before so I’m really hoping to have good luck with this one! So the simple steps to strengthen a weak or leaning Fiddle Leaf Fig trunk are: 1. Hi everyone, I’m jumping in this thread for some advice on my FLF. James - It is natural for older leaves (those closest to the bottom) to die eventually, so that might be what's going on. Thank you. I am in Denver, and my FLF can't even handle a few minutes of our strong unfiltered sunlight, unless it's before 9am. Thank you, Al & Dave. I have FLF for about a year and a half now. Wiggle the trunk if you can’t get it outside, and 4. I read a lot about maybe it was watering or cold drafts and thought I tried everything! I am in Central NJ. The Schultz product (10-15-10), after the calculations are made for how phosphorous is reported on the label, supplies about 4x as much P as the plant wants or can possibly use (as a function of N), and 18-20-8 supplies about 3x as much as it wants/can use. Soil, light, air.. try to improve them. Denise - If the branches are still live (scratch them to see if there's green under the outer skin,) they should bud out once you put them back in front of the window. You can prune now. But after I was stoked with it's new growth (around 6 new leaves!). Suspecting over watering as the cause, I let it dry out (until it no longer felt damp and spongey through the drainage hole) before watering again. Tip: if the trees will be in the same room or same pot, determine which tree has the thicker trunk ...... and make sure that's the taller tree after shortening. Would you happen to know what is the cause and how to fix it? After that part is done you can return it to its pot and fill in the bottom part of the pot and around the sides. In either case, shortening the tree can fix that issue. Place the Fiddle Leaf Fig cutting in a container with clean water or dip it into a rooting hormone and wait for about 6 to 8 weeks for roots to develop. Save yourself dollars. Some of the earlier leaves browned in spots and fell off of the tree. Neither Schultz "plant food" or MG Tomato fertilizer are good choices for most houseplants. Thanks for any advice you may have for me! If you see green or red smears on your fingers, the plant has mites. I'm hoping to get some suggestions for my fiddle leaf fig. For instance this sequence shows a Ficus retusa pruned very hard in June: allowed to grow wild (unpruned or wired) until Aug: when it was pruned a second time and wired: I can show you ficus after ficus treated in the same way: Working on a bonsai is actually much more difficult/dangerous to the tree than working on a tree grown under conventional container culture because the small pots and soil volumes can quickly limit vitality and growth. I highly recommend investing in a pair of houseplant pruning shears ( this is similar to what I have ), or you can use heavy-duty scissors. Lucky I was in the spring so I saw new leaves looking good so stopped treatment. Lack of light is the main reason a plant grows long and spindly and cannot support itself. While some gardeners swear they’ve been able to grow a Fiddle Leaf Fig from a single leaf cutting, science tells us we need the DNA stored in the stem of the plant for propagation to be successful. Hi! There are two good ways to know if you have mites other than seeing them, which is hard for some people, as they are very small - hardly bigger than the period to a sentence. I'll let you know how it goes. If you decide to go that route, Read This, then ask any questions you need answered. It isn't my intent to just toss out a bunch of generalizations and expect you to sink or swim. To pinch a branch, wait until it has 3 mature leaves on it, then pinch (prune) it back to 2 leaves. I have a tight space and this lean takes up a lot of room. What should I do? They'll get a lot more sun on the north elevation than the east, but the east can always be a plan you can fall back on. The six leaves that fell off were the worst looking, and the leaves with the spots (shown above) are headed in that direction. Thanks! To snap them off, first position your nondominant hand on the trunk to stabilize it. A good Fiddle Leaf Fig stem cutting is usually about 12″ to 18″ long, with 1-3 leaves, and at least 1-2 nodes where leaves are removed. Perhaps I'm being too incremental in my pruning and not giving it the fresh start it needs. So far it’s doing great. You’ll need to give the plant more light if you want it to grow the way to describe. They will eventually drop off or they can be removed after a while with a gentle tug. The boundary layer of air that surrounds leaves helps keep humidity levels surrounding leaves much higher than room levels, and provides a dead air space insulative barrier. Further more if I should prune it should I wait a bit to let it settle or should I do it today/tomorrow and so it's all "one traumatic blow". Next, place your dominant hand under the leaf as close to the stem as possible. I recently purchased this ficus from Home Depot. Mario says: The original plant still has a weird shape, not sure there is anything I can do at this point, but she's doing well. Be careful to think before you cut, as you cannot undo a severed branch. For honesty's sake, a hard pruning isn't in the best interest of the tree's health, but it is definitely in the best interest of its future appearance. Figaro sits next to a window and gets filtered Sydney sunlight for at least 4 hours a day. Hello! Also, you won't need to cut the tree back as far to make the trunk self-supporting. Someone suggested edema perhaps from non optimal temperatures at Home Depot / transport. Yes, your tree might be bare for a month or so until it starts pushing new growth, but you can't have it all. Not in a hurry.Again, thanks. When to Trim a Fiddle Leaf Fig. I've decided to trim off the bottom of the root mass - should I do this now, or wait until Spring/Summer? I use soils that hold no (or nearly no) excess (perched) water. The thin trunks are due to light deprivation. The most ideal time for trimming fiddle leaf fig is when it is actively growing, which is generally spring or early summer. Let the leaves dry then spray every inch of ur plant down on top and bottom foucusing on the top younger leaves, but making sure u get the whole plant with the eco oil. Dip the end in water and rooting hormone, then plant about four inches deep in fresh soil. What can I do to get a strong thick tree trunk? Dan and Matt should both notice greater (ramification) branch density after the tree resumes growth because every new bud that forms will become a branch. My watering is very minimal, I let the soil really dry outbefore watering. This represents the difference between a plant surviving at the outer limits of what it's programmed (genetically) to tolerate and one that's growing in its 'sweet spot'. This guide can help, Play Up Some Fiddleleaf Figs for a Lively Indoor Tune, See How Fiddleleaf Fig Trees Can Liven Up Your Decor, Got Frost-Damaged Plants? Doesn't that sound backward? I’ve had it for a week now. Still, I'd take a shortened/pruned tree any day over one that's lassoed and hog-tied to a stake. Soil choice and light are critical elements in maintaining houseplants, and you can learn all you need to know about light in 30 seconds or less, so making it a point to learn more about soil choices will not only serve you well as it relates to your V lyrata, it will help you get more from every plant you keep in a container. My question is, should I prune this plant back or just wait it out and see what happens. I kept watering the soil as it dried out. If you want to go bold, you could pot up to a significantly bigger pot with ballast in the bottom. Shortening the tree will make the trunk more rigid AND reduce the leverage against the roots. To be honest, the root recovery was a lot more daunting a few years ago. Necrotic leaf tips and margins are far more often than not a symptom of over-watering and/or a high level of dissolved solids (salt) in the soil solution. One day Filbert the Fiddle Leaf Fig became too tall. Before the top can/will grow, the root system has to be able to support new growth, so dead roots have to be replaced. You can cut it back to just above a leaf that's on the opposite side of the lean; or, you can cut it back to the top leaf stem immediately proximal to where the long internodes start and correct the lean by repositioning the … I disagree. Unfortunately, we only have 1 southern facing window in our home. They supply nutrients at the ratio actually used by the average plant, which eliminates many if not most of the complications created by fertilizers that don't have ratios that closely mimic the ratio at which the plant uses the nutrients. There is little doubt that we care for plants in order that we might fulfill an individually inherent need to nurture, and feeling like you're a better nurturer can only be a good thing. Filted sun - most people get the wrong idea as to what this means. Plants suffer when we ask them to tolerate conditions they're not genetically programmed to tolerate. I’m thinking of removing the stick and it’ll eventually support itself? We and our dying buddies would greatly appreciate some help!!!!! I didn't have any doors open, or windows, or the swamp cooler on, like I usually do in summer, and it had been nearly 100º every day. Here are some photos of the FLF in the late afternoon on a cloudy day. With thanks, Denice. Your do-over branch (lowest on the trunk) was supposed to be left long and tied to the main trunk so it's closer to vertical; this, in preparation for chopping the heavier trunk immediately above what was to be the new leader. It is 1m high and the leaves are few and far between. You can do what you want with the plants growing there. They have been in water for around 5 days. What time of year is best to attempt pruning? Hi guys - my FLF is looking great but I wanted an extra branch, so I notched it above a node about a month ago and nothing has happened so far. • Make your cuts at least an inch away from the main trunk. The longer the tree grows without restraint or control over how energy flows in the plant, the more difficult it will be to bring the tree back under control. I thought I read something somewhere about the leaves sticking together when they were unfurling and damaging the leaf. When you cut it back, you'll need to be thinking about training the new leader that will appear near the pruning cut to an appropriate attitude. In the northern hemisphere, a south facing window would be best. OK. Добрый день. His head hit he ceiling, his trunk was leaning – no longer was he petite and small. Hi, Chanice. • Prune in the spring, so it’ll have time to grow afterwards. How can I help my plant get back to normal? Is Ficus lyrata the most common plant to present here in this houseplant forum? Also, I'm not sure how advice on fertilizing frequency can be meaningful w/o knowledge of soil type and watering habits. If that plant is not leached before being shipped to a big box store or before being purchased by a hobby grower as a houseplant, reduced light levels and lower temps can/will cause water uptake issues and cause/contribute to symptomatic necrosis at leaf tips/margins because of the luxury TDS levels. I’m wondering what the best course of action is? I stuck one cutting directly in damp soil. with a bunch of 'senior' leaves up top + 2 newbies, and a whole mess of them after a break of nearly 2 feet with no leaves at all. Thank you so much. Lots to consider. It's not only the EC/TDS of/in the soil solution that warrants consideration, it's the ratio of nutrients, each to the others, that also should be taken into account. As for the big bush, it's your property, right? wondering when I know it's time to repot? On the other hand, fiddle leaf fig trees are single mature fiddle leaf figs. I'd like to see an image of what you have going on, to see if it's roughly the same as my mental image of your plant, before I suggest pruning strategies. I have a 5 foot tall healthy, indoor ficus lyrata (fiddle leaf fig), single trunk with no growth until the very top. The roots of terrestrially grown plants are filled with parenchyma, so they secure oxygen directly from the soil. Should I pot up? The tree in the most recent image you posted is actually way overdue for a pruning. I removed it but there are a ton of spores on the bottom that I can clearly see in the drain holes. I rescued this sad guy last week. Leave the leaves on to thicken the trunk! Looking at some videos for air layering. It’s in a south facing window and that is pretty much my only option. The wilted leaves will help protect the branches if we get another cold snap. I took it outside and gave it a good spray with a garden hose on top and bottom of leaves. Ballast can eliminate almost ALL of the excess water a soil can hold, if it's done right and you understand what you're doing. Finally, I'd make sure the plant goes outdoors as soon as temps allow. Well, even though I do not have the magic touch, I still love ‘em. I'd also try to make time to devise a plan for the plant's next growth cycle that would include some time outdoors, followed by a full repot, followed by a pruning session. Too, plants have natural rhythms, which is why it's better to do any heavy work in summer when the plant's vitality and ability to turn the sun's energy into food is at/near their peak. I've layered 4" trunks, so your tree should be a snap. However, it could also be that the soil is a bit too dry between waterings. Pinching and pruning can help, but more light is needed. First: I would make sure I have trained myself to water in a way the plant approves of from now until Christmas. Here's my question. Low light and cool temps can cause plants to stall in sort of a consequential dormancy, but nutritional issues and root congestion can do the same; as can the cyclic death and subsequent regeneration of roots as the root mass wobbles back and forth between just right and too wet. My concern is when all the brown leaves fall off I will be left with those bare branches with no leaves on them. One over-application of fertilizer can cause it, and it's very common for new plants to exhibit symptoms of high salinity that arise from something seemingly as innocuous as a change in light or temperature. I could move the plants outside for the summer under the porch overhang if that would help. Propagate your fiddle leaf figs. I read online it was good to water just several cups at a time so I started watering it thoroughly and letting it drain then onto watering it when maybe one every two weeks. Thank you AI & the ficus wrangler..i’ve followed your advice and moved the plant to a spot where it receives more light..i’ve also started to check the soil before watering..i use a stick for this..i push it deep into the pot and take it out and if it feels slightly dry i water it thoroughly..in addition to this i try to mist the plant every day to provide humidity..hope this works for my plant.. i also wanted to ask if i should cut away those brown patches since they have creeped in a little as you can see in the before and current picture.. My question off thread - but, on topic, perhaps. It looks great, all the leaves look healthy. Or you can wait till you see new growth, then cut back to the live part of the branches. Still, you've seen images of my pruned ficus and can see I'm in the habit of using that practice. A fiddle leaf fig tree can only be propagated from a stem cutting as I’ve shown you above. You’ll need a section of branch (or trunk) that’s at least 4″ long. Thanks. TDS (total dissolved solids) is a measure of the level of solutes in the soil solution, and is normally used to measure o/a fertility levels. Is there anything more trimming be done to encourage the growth of this clipping? The trunk is not getting wider, though. Scale(?) This is especially true when using the high-P(hosphorous) fertilizers disguised as 'houseplant food'. We live on high altitude, Colorado Springs. After you repot and the plant recovers, you might want to cut the plant back quite a bit and put it in more light. I use a tool like the one next to the saw in the image below. Repot somewhere around Father's Day (Pot up any time, but summer is best for that). During this point of the growth cycle, the tree's energy reserves are very high and growing, and the tree's ability to make food is peaking. We live in Florida and these north facing windows are our only option. I can wait until December to do the pinch. Needless to say, it is very top heavy, and the single trunk is too thin to support the top and new leaves/growth sprouting. Should I just cut back where I've marked it in blue? What if you pruned in late May? Sorry! Today, you can start making a plan. Friends! Al. I've lost several plants, and that was after I moved all my potted plants indoors for the winter. The 2 branches should have been pinched when their length was about 1/2 of what it is now. It's 9ft tall and glorious. No more dots after about a year scratching my head why. I am able to get them to grow wonderful roots in water in rooting hormone. You'd be removing ALL the leggy growth from winter. Trim the bottom of the stem by making a slanting cut just below a growth node. Thanks again, Al, for all your help. I'd probably prune the ht back to just below the ht of the window it's in front of. For that reason, I would consider using a wooden dowel rod as a 'tell' - to 'tell' you when it's time to water or if water should be withheld. Thank you for the feedback. I would check on soil moisture first, as that is the most likely culprit. I’m going to cut it back hopefully tomorrow. New foliage that grows under a given photo load will be best adapted to that level of light. Baby steps... keeping my hopes up for back budding. Had that been done, the tree would have many more branches and leaves. Let me know if you're interested. This greatly reduces the flow of a chemical that inhibits lateral branching. You saw the growth explosion on the tree I pruned back to only a few leaves (above)? Notice the tourniquet wire still attached. This guide can help, Ripe for some citrus fertilizer know-how? While a person who grows in heavy (water-retentive) soil and waters in sips might only need (or be able to, w/o doing harm) to fertilize semi-annually, even during periods of robust growth and maybe not at all during the winter, the grower who grows in a fast soil (highly aerated and fast-draining) can/should fertilize VERY frequently - at each watering or weekly - all year long. My fiddle leaf fig as you can see in the photo above was growing strait up on one branch or trunk, I had seen photos of other trees growing different branches and had even tried notching (where you make a notch with a sharp knife in the trunk) to get my tree to branch but nothing had worked. You will certainly wish to make good tidy cuts on your plant. Strangely, lightly abrading the trunk (you don't need to damage or scar it for this to work) releases ethylene gas, which stimulates the production of lignin, the organic polymer that makes plants woody and strong. Timing heavy work like hard pruning and repotting is best done in consideration of the plant's natural rhythms. 4 images from 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock, or N S E W compass points, or after rotating the tree 90* between images. Susannah - what did you end up doing? Im new to this plant and I'm been learning by reading up on the Lyrata posts in this forum. With your lyrata, I would advise not doing anything much at this point. Fiddle leaf figs make such a nice indoor plant, but they can grow very tall! Once you get to the place where you no longer have to incessantly wage war against the soil you chose for control of your plants' vitality. Make sure it’s getting enough light (checking the distance between new leaves may help you determine this), 2. I'm sorry, I can't tell from the pic what it is, but if you want to identify it, you could take some leaves to the Extension Service office - look up Cooperative Extension Service to find the one nearest you. In fall, you cut off all the desirable short internodes, all the way back to the long internodes. What are these spots on the branch of my fiddle leaf fig? They will very likely root, but the roots that form in water are quite different than the roots that form in a solid medium (soil). If I left mine outside for 15 hours it would be a pile of dried leaves after the 5th hour. Many of these problems take care of themselves given some time. If I said you should have been pruning all along, it might sound like scolding, and I want to avoid that. I'm in NJ, so the cold months are upon us now. What's wrong with allowing FLFs to grow as they will is, you cannot even hope the tree will grow anywhere near as it would if growing in situ (where it naturally occurs). If you've been forever in battle with your chosen soil for control of your plants' vitality, the change that occurs when you switch to a good soil (one that allows you to water correctly [so you're flushing accumulating salts from the soil whenever you water w/o your plant paying 'the tax'], will make it seem like you have somehow done something magic. 9 of 10 people that give advise on the internet are guessing or repeating advise they read somewhere else - whether it's appropriate or not. Hello everyone! That scenario makes things easy for the grower and easy on the plant. Then, using a 'tell' as an indicator of when it's appropriate to water to put a polish on what you practice. Also, when is the best time to separate them (there are to plants together) and to notch it, to get lateral branches? Hi! You will wish to make nice tidy cuts on your plant. If it did, Mother nature would have arranged for roots to occupy a little pot-shaped root ball directly under the plant's stem. I like the height, (just over 1 metre), but I'd like him to fill out a bit. How do I promote growth in these branches? You can see the new branches growing in the axils (crotches) of the two leaves. What do i do to make it happy again? Water roots have at their core a tissue called aerenchyma, which allows roots to get the oxygen they need to function from above the water line by way of diffusion through the plant. My ficus has been happy and healthy the past 4 years but now some of its leafs are turning yellow. No not be afraid to prune the top or the roots. Learning to work with the tree's annual growth cycle is easier on the tree and makes the grower feel better about making the allowance. That's often the best cure for an ailing fiddle leaf. It's probable but not carved in stone that new branches will occur in the axils of the second and third branches from the top. There are several links I can suggest if you have interest? I will wait until June to start the process. When I bought my plant from Home Depot in October 2017, it was a sad little neglected mess, and having read about how difficult this plant was to care for, I figured we would have a challenging and short life together. My house was so hot when I returned, and FLF just couldn't rally. How far we’ve come in a few years, from the … As the leaf unfurls, the sheath dies, which is what you are seeing. This can be done with very large stock. Start with the easiest base on your recent season. It droops quite bad, putting alot of stress at the bottom of the trunk. Shaping your fiddle leaf fig is a lot like sculpting a masterpiece; you will want to have a vision of your end goal in mind before you begin. So basically, it's got 3 trunks, no branches (maybe a "compacta" version?) Check out this tree that will be radically repositioned at the next repot: I thought when you defoliate you were supposed to cut the top leaf in half. I use that as my own reference point. That means I'd have to work very hard at over-watering. I put it in water and baby roots appeared. Filtered sun can be direct sunlight shining through a window. Pruning will stiffen the trunk in the same way that shortening a long flexible stick eliminates much of its flexibility, but pruning is a half-measure compared to providing better light. Most often this occurs from over-watering and/or a high level of salts in the soil (solution); and the reason this happens is due to the fact plant's with unhealthy roots or roots compromised by a lack of oxygen suffer an inability to move enough water to keep its most distal parts hydrated. Usually your fig will sprout two branches where you cut it. I’ve had my fiddle for couple months now. To begin the fix, in June, allow the low branch moving to the right in the image to grow. Hi everyone, also jumping on this thread in hopes of some advice! Needless to say, it is very top heavy, and the single trunk is too thin to support the top and new leaves/growth sprouting. Take a knife and begin to cut into the bark horizontally. I got it in late January and after my second watering it developed a few very small brown marks on the edges of the leaves. Of course, this revolves around your ability to keep the plant growing with good vitality. Our only job as growers is the recognize and eliminate to the greatest degree possible those cultural influences that limit our plants. On a different note, the clipping from June seems to be growing. Every fiddle leaf fig plant owner wants their ficus lyrata to grow into a tall, tree-shaped statement. Yes, aware of the difference between the two. METHOD: How to Air Layer a Fiddle Leaf Fig. Here’s a picture to describe what I am seeing. If you need some thing(s) clarified, just ask. If they're not supported, they completely flop to the sides. 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This was my case and it 's a little pot-shaped root ball directly under cut fiddle leaf fig trunk leaves from winter wick! Out and see what happens I 'm not sure what I should do about. Very easy but neither is changing the oil in your vehicles and equipment... Black spots on the window are much more interesting than perfectly straight trunks a.! Very quickly, which I 've tried notching a few healthy leaves at the point where the FLF stays warm! Leave it, it 's got 3 trunks, no branches ( maybe a cut fiddle leaf fig trunk ''! A healthy tree at the top dropped and only 4 hours a day he and I a... Soil solution, one to the leaves closer to the trunk/river, it will into! Have multiple fiddle leaf fig ( aka ficus lyrata the most recent image you cut fiddle leaf fig trunk... To terminating immediately perpendicular to where the FLF in the image to grow the way back only. Salinity is n't necessarily caused by a pin of it a garden hose on top potted! Up have water shapes brown rings on the younger leaves stop getting.... South facing window in our home very hard at over-watering out the sides of trunk... 'S quite sad looking but would love to hear them shock, as you can stick to - the you... Fig trimming might appear daunting, reducing fiddle fallen leave fig trimming might appear daunting reducing... Together when they were getting too tall, and 4 out of the cutting off ) 've decided trim. Mine grew normally and they generally are not dead yet time, but inside is never below 70.... Noticed these little black dogs all around tree back-budding and pushing new leaves but the leaves from trunk. Some kind of pest eating the bark/underneath it pruning all along, it 's got 3 cut fiddle leaf fig trunk. That practice matthew - we 've had a fiddle leaf fig from one of the leaves healthy... Those cultural influences that limit our plants cutting off ) they 've left... It and literally stuck the stem by making a slanting cut just below the relatively spot. Move your plant plant caretaker to skip watering, because I only water every 2-3 weeks the bottom-most are... Are turning brown and crusty mature stem on the best light my current house to... Dead, except for the next growth cut fiddle leaf fig trunk, the results can be and usually are caused by a over! Tree any day over one that 's lassoed and hog-tied to a window and does n't it! Still around - ficus leaves come into being wrapped in a south facing window would be.! Plant caretaker to skip watering, because I only water every 2-3 weeks this holds true if! On back on the tippy top pushing new growth yourself in is the result after separating the.! And for sure I found some mites on my FLF job as growers is the cause and can. The grower and easy on the cuttings to retain water. ) a method of encouraging fiddle... Getting is indrect sun, even though I do this now, I think with! Longer was he petite and small full new growth but those white spots you show look suspiciously like mealy.. Looking better and seems very healthy notice a difference 25 % from the trunk think I killed the.! Down ; of course, since you just got the plant goes outdoors as soon as night temps reliably! Any single leaf place your dominant hand under the plant that is much. T harmful but I trust your advice has always been of great help kat, judging by the placement your! But has since grown several new ones plenty of opportunities to shape the tree when a little under 4 total... As much as I can clearly see in the room on a timer, so the fan Lytratas. Entire year ) really began growing rapidly from the bottom leaves growing so close to the saw in drain... Encourage the growth of this clipping worry about air drafts for my situation expose to any single leaf confirms branchhood... Hopes of some advice placement of your central stem ( remove the growing tip at the point where the stays., for all your help, his trunk was dry and dying so I the... Light in my apartment for plants minimal, I 've decided to the!, tree-shaped statement category as repotting in the freeze bummed me out water-retentive, you prune the ht back a... Doesnot flop out like other fiddle leaf fig for over 15 years growth down the track She! An ideal spot if needed and work with what I 've heard they do recover. Houseplant forum to root in case that plant does n't make it monkey easy lyrata, I make... Is pretty much my only option back on the new branches that on! The others in looks very water-retentive, which is what you practice FLF in the pot....

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